There is nothing like a sundae to bring out the kid in all of us, but that is no reason it can’t have adult flavors! To make this sauce, the raisins are caramelized with butter, brown sugar, port wine and orange zest to make a rich sauce that isn’t too sweet. Fresh apple spiked with cinnamon adds a crunchy, slightly spicy counterpoint.
The raisins grow hilariously plump while cooking, blowing up like little zeppelins! Don’t let that worry you. When they cool back down, they return to a normal size.
For a smooth variation, you can also puree the sauce. It would also be delicious made with dried figs instead of raisins.
[[box: Fortified Wines
Fortified wines are wines that have had distilled spirits, often brandy, added to raise the proof, preserve the product, and create new flavors. They are delicious as aperitifs or after-dinner drinks, in cocktails, and for making sauces.
In all cases, you should avoid fortified wines that are specifically designated as cooking wines. They are mass produced, with awful flavors masked by vast amounts of salt. Your best bet is to buy mid-grade bottles for cooking, saving the expensive aged stuff for savoring straight. If you have the opportunity to taste a range of any of these wines, either at a shop or bar, you’ll find that there is much to learn and appreciate!
Here are some of the most popular fortified wines:
Port comes the Douro valley of northern Portugal. There are many varieties; the most common are red and rather sweet, making mid-grade bottles especially suitable for dessert sauces.
Madeira is also from Portugal, specifically the Madeira islands. It is made in a unique way, heating and oxidizing the wine for an extended period. (This method was developed after a ship carrying the wine sailed through the tropics and back!)
Sherry is made in and around Jerez, Spain. It is aged in a series of barrels (the solera), in a process similar to true balsamic vinegar. As with port, there are many styles, ranging from dry, pale fino to oxidized olorosos and sweet jerez dulces.
Marsala comes from the city of the same name in Sicily, and is produced with a system similar to sherry. It also comes in a range of sweetness levels, and is frequently used in desserts as well as savory sauces.
Vermouth originates in Italy and is typically either white and dry, or red and somewhat sweet. Both varieties are scented with a variety of herbs. The name is derived from wormwood, which is best known as an ingredient in absinthe, but vermouth doesn’t actually contain wormwood. Dry vermouth is especially useful as a cooking wine, as it keeps for a long time in the refrigerator.]]
Caramelized-Raisin Sundae
Serves 4 / 25 minutes
- 3 tablespoons butter + 1 more at end
- 1 cup raisins (Thompsons work well)
- ¼ cup dark brown sugar
- ½ teaspoon Kosher salt
- 1 cup port wine (tawny port is a good choice, not cooking wine)
- zest of ½ orange
- juice of 1 orange, divided in half
- 1 apple
- ¼ teaspoon cinnamon
- ¼ teaspoon sumac (optional, for color)
- 8 scoops high-quality vanilla ice cream
- Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the raisins, sugar, and salt and cook for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Don’t worry about the raisins getting very plump, they will shrink later. Do not let the raisins burn, but they should brown a bit.
- Add the port, orange zest, and juice of 1 half orange. Bring to a simmer and lower heat to maintain. Cook for about 10 minutes stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick enough to coat a spoon, or when you drag your spatula across the bottom of the pan, it leaves a clear space for a couple of seconds. Remove from heat and cool until slightly warm (about 100 degrees). Taste and adjust seasoning.
- Just before serving, put the remaining orange juice in a bowl. Peel and core the apple, then cut into ¼” dice, tossing frequently with the juice to minimize browning. Add the cinnamon and optional sumac and toss to coat.
- To serve, put two scoops of vanilla ice cream in each bowl or sundae cup. Top with ¼ of the raisins and sauce, followed by a handful of the apples. Serve immediately.
