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Vietnamese Salad Rolls (Gỏi cuốn) – Recipe

Vietnamese Salad Rolls Gỏi cuốn

I‘ve always loved Vietnamese Salad rolls (gỏi cuốn), and I’ve been making them off and on for decades, so I don’t know why I haven’t shared them with you guys before. If you haven’t had them, they are cool and refreshing, with a tender but slightly chewy rice paper wrapper surrounding thin rice noodles, lettuce, …

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Hummus Showdown – Abu Shukri vs. Taami

Hummus with Chickpeas and Falafel at Taami in Jerusalem

One of my very favorite days on our recent trip to Israel was the day that Sarina and I had stupendous hummus for a late breakfast and equally astounding hummus for lunch. In the morning we visited the Temple Mount in the Old City of Jerusalem and …

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Hungry Ghost Moroccan Carrot Salad – Recipe

Hungry Ghost Moroccan Carrot Salad

Before we get into Ellen Kanner’s lovely book, a quick note about the James Beard awards. My book didn’t win. While it would have been great, it also would have been a pretty huge surprise as a first time author. To be a finalist was an entirely sufficient thrill. My wife, Sarina, and I had …

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Roasted Asparagus with Pistachio Puree – Recipe

Asparagus with Pistachio Puree

At Sitka and Spruce and Bar Sajor, Matt Dillon serves quite a few salads and small plates with a base of various ridiculously good nut purees. Though really, puree isn’t quite the right word. They eat more like a sort of nut-based hummus: rich, creamy, slightly fluffy, but packed full of the flavor of roasted …

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Roasted Maitake Mushrooms In Smoky Tea Broth – Recipe

Roasted Maitake Mushroom In Smoky Tea Broth

Maitakes, also known as hen-of-the-woods (not to be confused with chicken-of-the-woods, which is completely different!), are a wild mushroom well worth seeking out at farmers’ markets or gourmet grocers. Maitakes are rather expensive, and their dramatic ruffled appearance and rich flavor are unusual, so when I use them, I like to make them the focus …

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Gorditas with Roasted Mushrooms – Recipe

Gorditas with Roasted Mushrooms

Gorditas: thick, delicious homemade corn tortillas that are shallow fried then split and topped with whatever moves you. Close cousins to the arepa and the pupusa.

I’m not going to kid you, gorditas are a bit of a project. You have to make and shape the dough, then toast them on a dry skillet first, then …

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Sichuan Spicy Cauliflower – Recipe

Sichuan Spicy Cauliflower

So, this happened: for reasons too tedious to explore, we ate dinner at a California Pizza Kitchen the other night. First time I’ve been to one in years. Not my first choice of places to eat, but it served the purpose. The very next morning, I woke up to this Google Alert in my inbox:

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