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Pomme Rösti

Pomme Rösti

Growing up in Kentucky, I’ve always been crazy about hashbrowns, specifically Waffle House hashbrowns. They are the kind made with shredded potatoes, fried in a thin layer so that they have a very high ratio of crispy crust to creamy interior. Now, I prefer them scattered, smothered, and covered, which means tossed on the grill …

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Austin-Style Breakfast Tacos – Recipe

Austin-Style Breakfast Tacos

I‘ve had the good fortune to travel to Austin a couple of times in the last year or so, and it is always good fun. Like Portland, Milwaukee, or Brooklyn, it is a place where people understand that work is important, but having a beer and a bite with friends, listening to music, or just …

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Italian Plum Upside Down Cake – Recipe

Italian Plum Upside-Down Cake

I‘m a an absolute sucker for Italian plums, to the point of being a bit heartbroken that my incredibly generous neighbors’ tree seems not to have fruited this year. Picking them warm off her tree is a highlight of late summer around here. So I was happy as could be when, on vacation, I found …

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Whole Bean Ful Medames – With Fava Beans or Marrowfat Peas – Recipe

Whole Bean Ful Medames

Ful medames is sort of the national breakfast of Egpyt, though it has spread far and wide from there. I’ve published an Ethiopian version before. I’ve never been to Egypt, but it sounds like the most common kind there is at least partially mashed. The one I’m showing you today is more reminiscent of the …

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Spare The Fat, Spoil The Flavor – Making Your Food Pop, Part 3

I’m not the first person to observe that Americans have a crazy, conflicted relationship to fat. We love it, and eat far more of it than probably just about any other country in the world. God knows we have the obesity epidemic to show for it. At the same time, we fear it mightily, speaking …

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Vegan “Bacon” From King Oyster Mushrooms – Recipe

Vegetarian "Bacon" From King Oyster Mushrooms

Let me say for the record: I have no desire to eat bacon. I prefer for pigs to keep their own bellies and backsides. However, I’m not at all opposed to having good ways of adding crispy, salty, savory, smoky goodness to my meals.

I know I go on about king oyster mushrooms a lot. I …

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Harissa Potatoes – Recipe

Harissa Potatoes

This was absolutely an improvisation; I’d been traveling and had very few vegetables in the house on my return, but found a few waxy potatoes lying around along with a hunk of feta and a package of dill that was still good. That got me to thinking of Middle Eastern flavors and 15 minutes later …

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